The Zocalo and Gustatory Delights

The heart of Oaxaca is the zocalo, the center plaza where all the action happens. Outdoor cafes flank the square on three sides and the Catedral de Oaxaca stands on the fourth. Surrounded by leafy trees, a cupola stands in the middle where bands play and dancers twirl. Lovers cuddle on ornate wrought-iron benches, children chase around the fountains, vendors sell balloons and painted wooden animals, mariachi bands stroll by, strumming their guitars. Each town in Mexico has its zocalo, but we hear this is one of the loveliest.

Christian and I have chosen a favorite cafe from which to watch the daily human theater unfold. We are methodically sampling local cervesas and mezcals (made from the agave plant like tequila, I find these much more flavorful and enjoyable). Each night holds new surprises: a folkdancing performance, a band playing for two giant puppets twirling on stilts, a silent parade of men with deep-lined faces and weathered sombreros I take to be a farm or labor rally, salsa lessons, another night merengue. 

Women of all ages, with colorful ribbons braided in their long dark hair, offer their baskets of chapulines: grilled grasshoppers. The locals' favorite snack food, the grasshoppers are gathered in the cornfields and grilled with minced onion. They are crunchy and a touch spicy. I popped one just to be a good sport and, while I managed to get it down, it will not be my new snack of choice. Christian has thus far restrained himself "until the time is right." The locals say that one who eats chapulines will return to Oaxaca someday.

Oaxaca is famous for seven types of moles. I have actually heard about more than seven, as people do not agree on which seven. These rich and flavorful sauces contain different chilies in varying amounts with ingredients such as bananas, sesame seeds, raisins and chocolate.  The following are a possible seven:  negro(chocolate), verde (green), amarillo (yellow), rojo (red), coloradito (red and less spicy),almendrado (almonds), and estofado (garlic) . Moles can be cooked with meats or rolled as filling in tamales.

For breakfast, I have been enjoying hot chocolate with bread for dipping. The chocolate here is not too sweet, blended with a bit of cinnamon and served in a bowl. Beautiful fruits and juices are widely available: papaya, pineapple, passionfruit, coconuts, mangoes. I find that coco fria, the chilled milk of the coconut, to be the perfect thirst quencher with tacos.

Another great find is the  flor de calabaza, the squash blossom.  Available in abundance, the orange flowers are filled with cheese and fried, or served in soup, or quesedillas, or really anything one likes.

I've come down with a bit of la gripa (a stuffy nose) but I found Mexican chicken soup to heal me:  sopa con pollo with chilies, cilantro and lime added by desired amount. I washed this down with a mezcal and fresh orange juice - a cure suggested my teacher - and I'm feeling much better.