Peregrine Days: Jardin Etnobotanico

Centro Cultural de Santa Domingo

(Jardin Etnobotanico resides in the back courtyards)

Francisco Toledo, one of Mexico's premiere living artists, resides in Oaxaca and has been a force in preserving and building up the cultural heart of the city. He is responsible for opening the Centro Cultural de Santa Domingo and starting a ethnobotanical garden on the grounds. (His other projects include the Museo de Arte Contemporaneo de Oaxaca, the Graphic Arts Institute of Oaxaca, the Jorge Luis Borges Library for the Blind, the Centro Fotografico Manuel Alvarez Bravo, Ediciones Toledo, children's libraries in Indian communities--and successfully blocking McDonald's in the historic center.)

We had planned to attend a tour of the garden on our last Saturday in town. A few days before, I met a new friend Amelia in her salon. During my pedicure, we were chatting about the 22nd Feria del Libros de Oaxaca (the 22nd annual book fair), a two week festival setting up in the streets. When I told her about my love of books, she offered to put me on the guest list for the gala Friday night in the garden, as she is on the board of one of the libraries in town. Of course, I happily accepted.

Alejandro and Amelia

The following night, Christian and I met Amelia and her husband Alejandro in the garden, transformed for the evening event by a large tent, white couches, candles and an incredible Cubano band. During the five course dinner, we chatted with Amelia and her husband (in Spanish) and danced until I turned into a pumpkin at 1:30 a.m.

Christian and I at the Gala de Feria del Libros

The following morning, we returned to the garden for a sunlit two-hour guided walk through the different species of cacti, maguey (agave) and flowering plants. I wish I had a stronger background in botany! For anyone interested, I just finished a fascinating little book by neurologist Oliver Sachs called Oaxaca Journal about his trip to Oaxaca with the NYC Chapter of the AFS - The American Fern Society. As geeky as it sounds, it was a great insight to the history and flora of Oaxaca.